Pemba Island

Lying about 10 km off Pemba’s west coast, Misali is a small, uninhabited coral island surrounded by some of the most pristine reefs in East Africa. It sits within the Pemba Channel Conservation Area, where community management has helped protect more than 40 genera of hard coral and several hundred species of reef fish. Green and hawksbill turtles feed in its waters and nest on its beaches, while dolphins are often seen on the boat ride out. Snorkellers can wade straight from the white-sand shore at Baobab Beach into coral gardens, and divers can explore sloping reefs and walls rich in soft corals, sea fans and schooling fish. On land, short nature trails wind through coastal forest and mangroves, home to coconut crabs, monitor lizards and roosting flying foxes. Misali also holds spiritual significance: local legend says the Prophet Hadhara asked passing fishermen for a prayer mat (msala), and when they had none, he declared the island itself would serve as his place of prayer. Today, small caves on the island are still visited by local people for prayer and traditional ceremonies.

Separating Pemba from the Tanzanian mainland, the Pemba Channel drops to depths of over 800 metres just off the island’s west coast, creating some of the most dramatic wall diving in the Indian Ocean. Nutrient-rich currents sweep along the walls, supporting healthy hard and soft corals, giant sea fans and abundant marine life. Famous sites include Njao Gap, a channel between reefs known for drift dives, big schools of fish and frequent turtle encounters; Fundu Reef, with sheer walls and colourful coral gardens; Uvinje Gap, a deep wall dive; and Swiss Reef, an open-ocean pinnacle where barracuda, tuna, reef sharks and occasionally hammerheads and manta rays appear. Divers regularly encounter eagle rays, Napoleon wrasse, giant groupers, moray eels, octopus and nudibranchs. With visibility often reaching 30 metres or more in the dry season and very few dive boats, Pemba offers a rare chance to dive untouched reefs. Many sites suit experienced divers due to currents, but sheltered reefs around Misali and Kokota are ideal for beginners and snorkellers.

In the far north of the island, Ngezi is Pemba’s last remaining stand of indigenous tropical forest, a remnant of the woodland that once covered much of the island. Its varied habitats include tall moist forest, swamp forest, coastal thicket and heathland, with trees such as the endemic Pemba palm and towering forest giants. Guided nature trails, led by rangers from the local community, offer the chance to see the endemic Pemba Flying Fox, the Pemba Blue Duiker (a tiny forest antelope), the Pemba Vervet Monkey, the Marsh Mongoose and a variety of butterflies. Birdwatchers come for the Pemba Scops Owl, Pemba Green Pigeon, Pemba Sunbird and Pemba White-eye, as well as the African Goshawk and Palm-nut Vulture. Night walks give the best chance of hearing or seeing the scops owl. Ngezi borders Vumawimbi Beach, so a morning forest walk can easily be followed by an afternoon by the sea.

Meaning “roaring waves” in Swahili, Vumawimbi stretches for several kilometres along Pemba’s northwest coast, backed by the forest of Ngezi. With soft white sand, clear turquoise water and almost no development, it is one of the most secluded beaches in the archipelago, often with nothing but fishermen and their dhows for company. It is perfect for swimming, long beach walks and picnics, and the sunsets over the Pemba Channel are spectacular.

About 10 km from Chake Chake, Kidike is a community-run conservation site protecting one of the largest roosts of the Pemba Flying Fox, a giant fruit bat found only on Pemba. With a wingspan of up to around 1.6 metres, it is one of the largest bats in Africa. Once hunted close to extinction, its numbers have recovered thanks to local conservation efforts, and the Kidike community now earns income from visitors. Thousands of bats hang in tall trees by day, and at dusk the sky fills with them as they set out to feed, an unforgettable spectacle. Local guides share stories of the bats’ history and the village’s role in saving them.

Pemba produces the vast majority of Zanzibar’s cloves, historically one of the world’s most important sources of the spice, introduced in the early 19th century under Omani rule. Over three million clove trees cover the island’s hills, and during harvest season (mainly July to December), families pick the unopened buds by hand and spread them on mats to dry in the sun, filling villages with their rich aroma. Guided spice tours explore plantations and village farms, introducing cloves, nutmeg, cinnamon, black pepper, cardamom, vanilla, lemongrass and tropical fruits such as jackfruit, rambutan and durian. A visit to the clove oil distillery in Chake Chake shows how cloves and clove stems are processed into essential oil for export.

Pemba’s position on the Indian Ocean trade routes left behind a remarkable legacy of historic sites.

• Ras Mkumbuu: On a peninsula west of Chake Chake, these are among the oldest Swahili ruins on the East African coast, thought by some historians to be the site of Qanbalu, a trading town mentioned by Arab geographers over a thousand years ago. Highlights include the remains of a large 14th-century mosque, pillar tombs and houses, set among baobabs by the sea and reached by boat or on foot.
• Chwaka Ruins: Near Wete in the north, Chwaka was a thriving town around the 15th century, linked by legend to Haruni, son of the ruler Mkame Ndume. Visitors can see the remains of a Friday mosque, a smaller mosque, tombs and the outline of the old town.
• Pujini Ruins: Southeast of Chake Chake lie the remains of a fortified palace said to belong to Mkame Ndume, whose name means “milker of men,” a reference to the forced labour he used. The site includes thick defensive walls, a moat, a staircase reportedly built so he could reach the sea unseen, and an underground shrine still visited by locals.
• Chake Chake Fort: An 18th-century Omani fort in the heart of town, now home to a small museum on Pemba’s history, culture and archaeology.

On Pemba’s northwest coast, The Manta Resort is home to one of the world’s most famous hotel rooms. Opened in 2013, the Underwater Room is a three-level floating structure anchored about 250 metres offshore in the Kokota Reef area. The landing deck offers lounging space, the upper roof deck is perfect for sunbathing and stargazing, and the bedroom sits 4 metres below the surface, surrounded by windows onto the reef. At night, spotlights attract fish, octopus and squid, creating a living aquarium around the bed. It is a bucket-list experience popular with honeymooners and adventurous travellers.

The deep, nutrient-rich waters of the Pemba Channel make Pemba one of East Africa’s premier big-game fishing destinations. Anglers target blue, black and striped marlin, sailfish, yellowfin tuna, wahoo, dorado and giant trevally. The best season runs from about September to March, with sailfish peaking from around December to February. Most operators practise catch-and-release for billfish, helping to protect stocks.

From roughly August to October, humpback whales migrate along the Pemba Channel to breed and calve, and they are often seen breaching and tail-slapping close to the island. Bottlenose dolphins, spinner dolphins, and Indo-Pacific humpback dolphins can be spotted year-round, especially on boat trips to Misali and along the west coast.

Pemba’s coastline is laced with mangrove-lined creeks and inlets, important nurseries for fish and home to herons, kingfishers, crabs and mudskippers. Kayaking or paddleboarding through the channels at high tide is a peaceful way to explore them. As evening falls, a sunset cruise aboard a traditional wooden dhow, the same type of vessel that has sailed these waters for centuries, offers a classic Swahili experience, often with fresh seafood on board.

Pemba is surrounded by small islets and sandbanks, including Misali, Kokota, Fundo and Njao, many with empty beaches and excellent snorkelling. Day trips by boat combine swimming, snorkelling, beach picnics and visits to small fishing communities.

Pemba remains one of the most authentic and traditional places in Tanzania, with tourism still very low-key. Chake Chake, the island’s main town, has a lively market, the historic Omani fort, and easy access to Kidike, Ras Mkumbuu, and Misali. Wete, in the north, is a relaxed harbour town and gateway to Ngezi, Chwaka and Vumawimbi. Mkoani, in the south, is the main ferry port, with nearby beaches and islets. Village visits offer insight into fishing, farming, mat weaving, and daily Swahili life, and Pemban people are known for their warm hospitality.

In some villages, particularly in the south and around Kengeja, Pemba keeps alive a centuries-old bullfighting tradition believed to date from the Portuguese presence in the 16th and 17th centuries. Unlike Spanish bullfighting, the bull is not harmed; young men taunt the bull with cloths in a lively community celebration, usually held after the harvest, roughly between December and February.

Pemban food reflects its Swahili, Arab, and Indian heritage, with dishes rich in coconut, cloves and other local spices. Highlights include fresh grilled fish and octopus, seafood curries, pilau and biryani, coconut rice, chapati and fresh tropical fruit. Street snacks such as mandazi, cassava chips and sugarcane juice are found in every town market.